The Grand Tour, or get out and travel

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The Grand Tour is associated with wealthy brits traveling around Italy back in the 19th C., think of Lord Byron, or E. M. Forster’s Room with a View. But long before them, noble Spaniards were doing the Grand Tour, as I recently discovered at a brilliant exhibition at the Biblioteca Nacional in Madrid, titled Palabras de Viajeros.

The Grand Tour eventually morphed into “Euro railing” which was a Summer jaunt through Europe taking advantage of cheap rail tickets. My niece did this last year and there seemed to be more flights than trains and more discos than museums…

Nowadays I do not travel as much as I used to. Mainly because I am now tied to the academic calendar, and when I am not teaching, I enjoy spending time with my family, with Celia, with friends. But I still manage little escapades to Chapel Hill, to Rome, to the Camino. And I am excited to visit St. Augustine soon, look out for that post.

The issue here is not so much an issue of quantity as much as quality. Discovering new foods, talking to locals, walking, walking, walking. And processing, maybe through writing, keeping a diary -for me it is this blog- I do not know if Instagram allows you enough depth to really appreciate your travels, although we always enjoy nice photos.

At any rate, the conclusion is simple: if you can, when you can, go travel.

 Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow mindedness.

Mark Twain  

Art as meditation, Sphinx Virtuosi

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Richard Rohr recently explained in his daily email about the transformative power of art (see below). Although this is something we have known for a long time, I was just thinking the same thing recently.

My dear friend, old student, Film Club founder, and overall formidable fellow, Guillermo recently invited me to see him perform with his orchestra, Sphinx Virtuosi, at the New World Center in Miami.

When the art hits, when it envelops you, your attention is focused on the art. You are not thinking about bills, work, what’s for dinner, etc. At that moment, at that point, you are as close to the divine as you are possibly going to be. The beauty of this moment is that it happens without conscious preparation, you just hit the moment, and it is beautiful.

The Sphinx concert featured their amazing musicians, all of which are at the top of their game, with musicians, fellows, from the New World Orchestra in a fluid collaboration. William is not my only old student playing in the Sphinx Virtuosi, Tommy Mesa whom I have mentioned before (here) and Celia Hatton who, like Guillermo, plays the viola, were also my students. Having a drink after the show I met Canadian-Caribbean violinist Maithena Girault.

So go immerse yourself in art, the more you appreciate art, the more chances you are going to have of being transformed by it. It could be a concert, in a museum, any form of art has the power and potential to elevate you. Be open to it.

You are welcome.

The Transformative Power of Art 

Push yourself beyond your comfort zone, say yes.

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John Irving’s A Prayer for Owen Meany is a wonderful book which I read many years ago, (I worked out with John Irving once, but that is for another post). A line stuck with me through the years because I identify with it:

“That looked neat!” my cousin Simon would say; Simon loved to fall – he skied to crash.”

I identify with that line because that is how I ski (skied, there is not much snow in subtropical Florida). If at the end of a ski run, I have not fallen, I have not pushed myself enough. Not that I am a great skier, I am not. Snow is usually and hopefully nice and soft to fall on, so it is a bit easier to push oneself.

All this to say that you should push yourself beyond your comfort zone.

I was recently asked by my students to read at their graduation ceremony.

This is not like when I read at my little neighborhood parish in Madrid on Sunday mornings with max a hundred people in attendance. This was a packed, huge church with about a thousand people, four bishops, and all my colleagues and superiors. Despite much practice, I was nervous.

During my second Camino, before mass at the massive, fortified cathedral of Mondoñedo I was approached by the sacristan who explained how their tradition was to have pilgrims do the readings, never mind that I was wearing flipflops, shorts and a t-shirt (there is no formal attire for the Camino). One cannot -or should not- say no to such a request, so I read. After a long day of walking and meditation, it was an honor to read and I was deeply moved, and it was very emotional (yes, I cried).

So when you get a chance to push yourself out of your comfort zone; skiing or reading in front of many people, or whatever it might be, say yes, it will make you a better, stronger, humbler person.

You are welcome.

On the importance of academia, presenting at conferences, a return to UNC Chapel Hill

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Yes, there are a lot of problems with academia, the ivory tower and all that. But at its core, it is still important, necessary, even critical I would say.

It has to do with research, discovery and then sharing that information. I was blessed to be able to participate at this year’s Carolina Conference for Romance Studies, It was great! I had some issues getting to Chapel Hill (but that merits its own post).

Living in 2 season Florida (dry, warm, and wet, and humid) it was fantastic to feel Spring, cool in the morning and evening and warm during the day. I was grateful for Spring! Plus everything was blooming and it was just so beautiful!

My panel was fantastic, well attended, and with great questions. I presented on a little-known 18th C. Spanish book: Los aldeanos críticos. My colleague presented on Galdós, so it was exciting. Other panels I attended were brilliant. During drinks that evening, I had great conversations about Zola with an old classmate and Posthumanism with the conference’s keynote speaker (expect a post on that also).

I also managed to see old professors and friends, even to sneak into the Ackland museum and bask in Carducho, Picasso, and all the other artists, to visit old hangouts; YoPo for frozen yogurt, and Zogs for drinks!

So my mission was accomplished, I was incredibly happy and satisfied with it!

What makes the best gym? The Zoo

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I once wrote about the best gym in the world, but it is in Naples Fl, so it is not a viable daily option as an everyday gym. Which prompts the question, which is the best gym?

As usual, I was a bit of a late bloomer into the gym scene, although I have done a lot of sports since childhood, they were mostly outdoors. With age, and Boston winters I “discovered” resistance training as a critical part of one’s fitness journey. Since those winter days of 2010 I have been to many gyms and now have decent criteria for choosing a gym.

The factors to consider when choosing a gym might be:

Convenience, it is easy to get to for you. Ideally you could walk. These were my gyms in Boston (city Sports), Madrid (Metropolitan, Synergym) and Chapel Hill. If it is at all inconvenient that becomes a great excuse not to go… it is too far, there is no parking, etc. etc.

Size is important, you want to be able to mix up your workouts. You need a variety of cardio machines and enough of them to be able to get one when you need one. For example, my apartment building has a gym which is only an elevator ride away (no, there are no stairs to get to it, ironic), but it is rather small and limited, so I have reduced options for workouts.

Ideally it should have staff to help you with anything from helping you with technique to helping you with anything you might need.

It is in this aspect that The Zoo in Boynton Beach shines! Yes, it is only a few minutes away from home and yes it has enough machines and weights and spaces to be able to always do a workout. But it is (as usual) the people who welcome you and make you feel at home that makes the difference. Jennifer is always there with a blinding smile that makes you feel that little bit better to face your workout, she is always quick with advice, wise beyond her years, encouragement or just chit chat to get you motivated. Lorenzo will gladly check your posture or technique, or if you ask him will give you advice on specific workouts -beware of what you ask, or he will kick your ass (in a good way). I have learnt to only ask if I am up to giving that little bit extra to finish off my workout! Since I always do my workouts in the afternoon / evening, I do not usually see Mario, but he wears a permanent smile as he welcomes you and checks you in.

Some gyms offer all the amenities -which do not get me wrong, are nice. The Zoo has golf lessons and physical therapy, but at the end of the day you are going to the gym to work on your fitness and wellness, do not focus on the superficial aspects of your workout.

What makes a good gym for you? let me know in the comments!

The best thing in Miami is not in Miami (not Miami Beach either)

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Yes, Little Havana is culturally significant, and South Beach Art Deco district is architecturally interesting, but otherwise, as I have said before, Miami does not have that many redeeming qualities. There are curious little stops like Dr. Jackson’s house, The Barnacle and Coconut Grove, Vizcaya, Coral Gables, Winwood Walls, Miami Design District, Little Haiti, Gesú church, etc. This is understandable, it is a young city founded in 1896 -the first city in America founded by a woman, Julia Tuttle.

But otherwise. anonymous skyscrapers (Zaha Hadid’s 1000 Museum is a notable exception) and overrated and overpriced restaurants do not an interesting city make (Joe’s Stone crab is a historical exception).

But how many rivers have you been on that are 60 miles (97km) wide and over 100 miles (160km) long? That you can walk in (the average depth is about 130cm), that you can see alligators, turtles, snakes, and all sorts of birds? Well, go to the Everglades!

I discovered the Everglades -and its brother park Big Cypress in 2016 and fell in love! It really is an environmental miracle, a very slow-moving river (Florida has no elevation!). I have recently started taking tours of the Everglades. Airboat rides are great fun and I happen to know the best! Run by the legendary Miccosukee family the Tigertails.

So if you are in Miami, of course, visit the city, but make sure you experience the Everglades! You are welcome.

Here is a 7 minute documentary on the current situation of the 3 million acre, largest sub-tropical area in the world, what the Miccosukee call the “River of Grass.”

The evolution of my Camino packing

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Pilgrims have been walking to Santiago from all over Europe since about the year 800, before Hoka running shoes, before high tech fibers, before ergonomic backpacks, before electronic watches that measure your heart rate, every step you take and your lymphocytes, before, before, before. So chill.

On top of that, most people walk really short Caminos, so your choices are not that critical; you are going to walk for 5 days, eating much better food at half the price of whatever you are eating at home, sleeping on decent beds, showering with decent water pressure, with a fully stocked pharmacy in almost every village you walk through should you need any medicine, and enjoying free, high speed Wi-Fi internet connections so you can post on Instagram. You will not be roughing it (unless you choose to).

As I prepare for my fifth Camino, here are some thoughts on my packing and the evolution of my packing philosophy.

One of your realizations on the Camino might be how happy you are with so little, only with what you are carrying on your back. So packing is or should be an exercise in minimalism. Here are some thoughts:

There are laundry facilities in all albergues, some might be modern washer driers, some might only have manual washing options. If you are not willing to hand wash your own socks, underwear, and t-shirt –ask yourself if you want to be on the Camino. So you do not need to pack a lot of clothes. I pack 3 pairs of wool, no stitching socks, 3 underwear, 3 (long sleeve) cotton T shirs -yes, I am a snob and hate the feel of modern fibers. 2 pairs of cargo shorts (the side pocket is perfect for guidebook, maps, etc.) and a sweatshirt. My first Camino, optimist that I am, I did not pack a sweatshirt, and it was freezing in June in Burgos, so I had to buy one!

Did I tell you I am a snob? My sleeping bag is my favorite bedsheet folded in half and sewn together like a sleeping bag. It is much heavier than a modern sleeping bag, but it is far comfier, with matching pillowcase, of course.

If it rains you are going to get wet. Yes, you can buy a $200 jacket that will keep you dry, good for you. For a few bucks you can have a poncho that will also cover your pack. (although you should also have a rain cover for your pack). Be ready to activate your rain protocol quickly as summer showers might pop up unannounced. (You do not want your poncho at the bottom of your pack.

Bag of mixed nuts (trail mix) in a side pocket for a snack if the walk between villages is too far.

Bandanas (x 3) great for picking up sweat, as an impromptu hat, etc.

Sun hat, people have died on the Camino from sun strokes. On the climb up from Castrojeriz you read the sad story of a fellow who basically got skin cancer -on that climb.

Swiss Army Knife, you are only going to use it to maybe slice some bread to make a bocadillo (Spanish sandwich) or to open a bottle of wine, but it gives you great peace of mind knowing that you have it.

Bathing suit! If you find a spot for an after-hike dip, or a municipal pool, you will need it.

Lightweight towel.

Flip flops. My first Camino I carried sandals for the après-Camino, but then I realized that most of the population of Southeast Asia only wear flip flops. So I ditched the sandals, I now wear my cheap flip flops all the time.

Silk long johns. Some evenings it does get chilly, long johns to the rescue. They weigh nothing and take up zero space.

A few feet of thin rope. No rope space for your laundry? Bring your own line…

Water bottle. A lot of people use bladders, on a sweltering day you will quickly run out of water and those are difficult to fill in a village fountain… you have been warned.

Savon de Marseille: use it for your body, shampoo…or clothes, 3 in 1. If you get it in Spain, it is called jabón Lagarto, every supermarket has it.

Small first aid kit, you might need a few things to take care of blisters, etc. More for peace of mind on the trail.

Small book and writing/drawing notebook.

Sunglasses.

Rule of thumb is your pack should never exceed 10% of your body weight and should never exceed 10 kg (22lbs). My pack is a 50 liter, but I have plenty of space. Also remember to pack the heavy stuff in the bottom of your pack so it will sit in your lumbar area.

Now, having said all this, forget it! Each person is different with unique needs and expectations, experience, etc. So, make your own Camino, and your own pack. Buen Camino!!

El escudo de Chile, Luis Correa-Díaz, la canción del exiliado. (Finally going bilingual!)

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Hay un hilo que une a todos los exiliados, emigrantes y refugiados del planeta: nuestras cabezas conocen los problemas y saben las dificultades que hay en nuestros países, pero nuestros corazones añoran todo lo bueno que dejamos atrás: las familias, amigos, la comida, los olores, los sonidos. Luis Correa-Díaz lo explica con poemas en su Escudo de Chile (Oxeda 2023).

Confieso que cuando recibí el libro que Luis generosamente me envió, estaba justo leyendo otro libro. En vez de dejarlo acumulando polvo en mi escritorio se lo presté a Ricardo, mi compañero de trabajo chileno, enciclopedia andante de futbol, quien me aclaró mis dudas sobre Chile que ignorante de mí solo conozco de Missing con Jack Lemmon y Sissy Spacek (1982) y Los diarios de la motocicleta.

En esta aventura narrativa, perdón, en verso, Correa-Díaz, nos invita a su exploración postmoderna, postcolonial, milenial, romántica, político-futbolística, neo barroca (¿Cómo escribiría poesía Alejo Carpentier en el siglo XXI?), musical, culinario-gastronómico de Chile por medio de su escudo.

El libro está dividido en 70 poemas, pero la ausencia de puntuación nos propone, en un juego borgiano, 70 poemas o un solo poema o infinitos poemas. La lectura fluye entre poemas con solo algunos cambios de perspectiva cuando el narrador es el escudo o cuando las referencias cambian de históricas (Pinochet, Aylwin) a musicales (Serrat, Bad Bunny, Juanes…), a futbolísticas (Colo-Colo, la Roja), etc.

El escudo de Chile es tan solo la piedra angular de esta construcción, un trampolín que permite a Correa-Díaz tocar la política, la historia, la geografía y sobre todo la cultura de su país entre Jung, Gabriela Mistral, Dante, Capitán América, Trump, emoticones, fotos…

Este es el tercer poemario que leo de Correa-Díaz después de Valparaíso, puerto principal y Del amor hermoso – el cual sale auto referenciado en el Escudo de Chile –Y es tan enriquecedor como los anteriores!

Llevaba años pensando en hacer este blog bilingüe. Inspirado por Luis, por fin, después de 13 años me he decidido. Espero que os guste.

Marina District, my new neighborhood

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It has been about six months since I moved to Raskolnikov’s apartment (it is far from it, but I like the analogy, and I am sticking to it!)

Yes, the apartment is small, less than half the size of my previous quarters, but, paradoxically, the bathroom is much bigger than the old one. I do miss having an oven (apparently the first floors of the building were supposed to be some sort of luxury resort apartments, but that did not work, so now they are “regular” apartments), but being in a bit more of a neighborhood trumps the negative aspects.

The building itself has all the bells and whistles: steam bath, sauna, gym, two pools (a lap pool and a “regular” one), etc. Unfortunately, the owners tend to be old, cold, paranoid New Yorkers, or Northerners in general, so you need a digital key fob to move anywhere around the building: to operate the elevators, to get to the mailroom, etc.

The main benefits are being walking distance to the beach, to my favorite pizza in Boynton Beach, Café Frankie’s, to the dry cleaners, Paola’s great Fran’s Sew N Sew, to a bunch of other restaurants like the famous Two Georges, or Banana Boat, Scheurer’s the delicious chocolate maker, a hardware store, a breakfast diner, DJs, even the public library is walking distance. But probably the handiest feature is how close it is to my parish, St. Mark… across the street. Sunday mornings I just cross the street to get to church!

Is technology making us more or less human?

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Sr. Damien Marie Savino FSE recently asked this question at a “Town and Gown” conference at school.

Of course, the question was answered before the conference even started. Yes, computers might, and probably will rule the world at some point (soon) to who knows what end. But that only underlines our humanity.

Sister Dr. Damien who is a Franciscan Sister of the Eucharist, the religious order that works in our school –although Sr. Damien is currently working at the U of Notre Dame in Indiana, had a well laid out presentation going over some key and necessary points such as Who we are not and Who we are. She made some cool references to paintings like The Song of the Lark by French naturalist artist Jules Breton (1884), as well as to Heidegger, CS Lewis, Pope Francis, Gaudi, etc.

To be frank, Chat GPT was launched (carelessly, I might add) in November of 2022 and I am already sick and tired of it, and it has only started, and it is only going to get more and more conspicuous. Oh well.

This is the video on Gaudí that Prof. Savino shared with us: